annealed the pins to make them softer....
LJ, the buffer & recoil spring are stock .223..... I understand the difference of felt recoil, slow roll vs. sharp kick. But fail to understand how that could affect a pin that is only a pivot point for the trigger.... the hammer maybe since it is directly contacted by the bolt. All I can think of is maybe the distance between the back of the hammer and the disconnect might be too tight, causing stress on the pin itself.....??Your thoughts...?? MG
The difference in recoil is the problem itself.
1)The pins handles the rifle recoil fine. It’s the rolling recoil that might be breaking them.
2)As to the hammer clearance, it might be doing a double hit. The hammer might be bouncing off the bolt on firing and then getting smacked back down when the carrier travels to the rear.
Do you have any marks on the hammer spur, the top of the disconnector, or the face of the hammer?
I will add, even though it’s not applicable to your issue, some of the pistol caliber bolts weigh in over a half pound. Some of the pistol buffers are up to a half pound. That’s a lot of weight to be slinging back and forth.
This DIY AR trigger job is superb! I just did it today and I love it. The two things I didn't do was bend the Hammer Spring and add the over travel set screw as I wanted to see what it was like without doing that to it. The other steps I followed to the letter. I totally love the trigger pull without bending the Hammer Spring. It used to break at 10 pounds and now it breaks at 5.5 pounds. It is so crisp and feels great. I am going to do it to another AR-15 I have. I have a CMC (Chick McCormick Co.)Match grade trigger in my Spikes Tactical Lower and comes somewhat close to the performance of that trigger. I was contemplating buying another CMC for this particular rifle I performed this mod to and now I don't have to. Thanks so much for the write up and great pictures.